Autumn Matsutake on the Dinner Table
It’s been a rainy fall in Shinshu this year, and we’re eagerly awaiting some sunny days. Perhaps thanks to all that rain, we’ve been harvesting some excellent matsutake mushrooms this year.
When we think of fall foods, matsutake mushrooms hold a special place in our hearts. They aren’t something that appears on the dinner table every day, but just hearing their name makes us feel that the seasons have changed. What should we pair them with? Who should we share them with? Even before we take our first bite, that anticipation begins.
In addition to matsutake, the mountains of Shinshu are home to mushrooms such as akayamadori and kōtake—varieties rarely found in markets. Each has its own distinct aroma and flavor, and when served at the dinner table, they become the highlight of the meal. Even so, when it comes to the star of autumn in Shinshu, it is, without a doubt, the matsutake.
People come from all over Japan—and even from overseas—to Yukimoto, a Japanese restaurant in Iida City, to savor the cuisine of its owner, Takayuki Hagiwara. The fall matsutake season, in particular, draws large crowds eager to enjoy flavors unique to this time of year.
You can savor freshly picked matsutake mushrooms that very same day. The autumn cuisine at Yukimoto reflects this close connection to the land. Underpinning this is a relationship of trust with the people who harvest the mushrooms in the mountains. To ensure guests enjoy the finest matsutake mushrooms in their best condition, the work done in the mountains and the work of the chefs are closely intertwined.
Beyond the aroma and texture of the matsutake mushrooms, part of the joy of visiting Yukimoto is seeing how Chef Hagiwara prepares the seasonal, locally sourced ingredients each day.
Among Yukimoto’s dishes is the “oyaki.” While it’s a familiar food in Shinshu, here it’s a dish that wraps seasonal ingredients. The dough is based on a recipe that the proprietress’s grandmother used to make at home. The taste passed down through generations at home blends with this dish that wraps seasonal ingredients. Once you learn about its background, the way you perceive a single oyaki changes slightly.
You can experience the culinary artistry of Yukimoto’s restaurant right at home. The matsutake mushroom oyaki featured in Yamazakana Yamaki offers just that.
There is also matsutake tsukudani. Just put a little on top of some plain white rice. We think it’s nice to savor them slowly with a glass of sake. Even with special ingredients, there’s no need to make a big deal out of it. Just enjoy them with your usual meal and your favorite tableware. We’re drawn to that kind of way of eating.
We enjoy the flavors I encountered on my travels once we return home. While eating, we recall the towns we walked through and the shops we stopped at. We think this is one way to bring a piece of Shinshu’s autumn home with us.
At Yamazakana Yamaki, we believe that a single dish can make an ordinary meal feel a little special. We hope that our matsutake mushroom oyaki and tsukudani will be just such dishes that you’ll enjoy having on your dining table.